Olivier Theyskens has built up a jealous reputation for romance. The hook-and-eye closure worn by Edwardian, lace frissons, fine dresses, and a full line have been the hallmarks of his career since the late 1990s when he started his anonymous label in Paris. What may not have been so closely associated with her sophisticated view of femininity sequins? But that has changed since he took over the creative work at Azzaro two years ago, where he did couture — and incorporated all the glitter.

I like that it’s possible to play with things I was ashamed of in the past

Paillettes, crystals, sequins,” he said, at first glance at the main office of the house in the eighth arrondissement. “That’s a normal Azzaro thing, and I find out how good it can be.” Part of that is based on having a good working relationship with the atelier team. “Once you comprehend the civilization, what [the vendor] can do, you can be confident that when you do the procedure, it will be accomplished the correct way.” Also, after carefully capturing a carefully crafted cutting-edge archive showing the list of It-girl fans of the ’70s (Jane Birkin, Brigitte Bardot, Romy Schneider, Dalida), Theyskens has become an expert at making decorations feel easier. “Focused on me, the idea: It’s a couture house, but it’s not an haute couture house,” he explained. “It has no rules for haute couture. Most clothing is very simple, it is about shape. ”


Has been the go-to word for this season, and it was packed with a combination of coat and knit trousers with metallic and louche, shiny suits in shades of gray, caramel, and Russian blue. The most memorable was the evening gowns, which were cut to reveal the back, their skirts left long and stunning, some with deep Vs around the neck and straps cut with crystals. They were reminiscent of the costumes that Charlize Theron, Cate Blanchett, and Halle Berry wore on the red carpet in the early 2000s, and that fit the current thirst for Y2K without compromising on development.

In addition to these COVID-driven months of red carpet events

You have found some success with men’s clothing, which attracts a growing customer. Highlights include a spangled take on the pinstriped suit, silver sequin stripes; and a two-piece black paillette suit paired with a liquid vinyl roll-neck. Some of the best pieces of the showroom. However, will not make the film editing work to portray the 2022 spring collection instead of the show. “People want a new language. But I want to continue working on the retro-vintage, which I love, ”said Theyskens. Clients begin to search for services designed for measurement at the time of individual appointments. And request a replacement of the archives. Thinking of redesigning chainmail brushes has been popular since the 1970s. But everything is in good time. “For now,” he said. “I select something that I judge is timeless.”

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